Stepping into the realm of culinary adventure in the frozen wilderness of Antarctica, I, a seasoned chef, embarked on a journey that few have dared. The first glimpse of the Antarctic is a revelation, a childhood dream materializing. It's not just the destination; it's the entire experience, from the multi-plane journey spanning three to five days to the thrill of testing one's mettle against the vastness of nature. Thirty years ago, I almost joined the British Antarctic Survey (BAS), but fate had other plans as I prepared to welcome my first child. Instead, I found my calling in Michelin-starred restaurants, hotels, and even a school kitchen in Oxfordshire, honing my skills and crafting meals for diverse palates.
In 2016, I took a sabbatical and finally joined BAS as a chef for the summer. Five years later, I returned for the winter, and last year, I became the organization's full-time catering manager. The call of adventure was irresistible. Now, I oversee the catering across BAS's five Antarctic stations, where research meets residence. Each year, I spend three months in this icy paradise, the rest of the time working at BAS's headquarters in Cambridge.
At our main hub, Rothera, four chefs and I start the day by baking bread, consuming around 12kg of bread mix daily during peak season. We serve breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the traditional 'smoko' at 10 am, a hearty meal of bacon rolls, beans, sausages, tomatoes, and soups, totaling 5,000 calories a day, catering to the staff's extreme activity in the cold.
Our kitchen is a canteen, not a Michelin-starred restaurant, but we take pride in our meals. With a predominantly British staff, we cook familiar comforts like toad in the hole, shepherd's pie, fish and chips, curries, and a roast every Sunday. Saturdays are special; we transform into a restaurant with tablecloths and candles, often with a theme. From 1970s dinner parties with frankfurters and mash to pineapple and glace cherries, the creativity knows no bounds.
Despite the challenges, we have a good range of products. The food arrives frozen, requiring thawing, which affects taste. While meat, fish, and dairy maintain quality, fruits and vegetables lose their crunch. Managing supplies is crucial; we receive only one food delivery a year at Rothera, ordering bacon and sausages by the tonne. Walls of chopped tomatoes and tins of potatoes, along with dry goods in shipping containers, fill our pantry.
Our kitchen is professional, and you'd never guess you're in Antarctica. The view of icebergs, sea, and mountains is breathtaking. The continent is barren, dominated by emperor penguins, but the peninsula teems with wildlife: penguins, seals, and whales. Birds like skuas, albatrosses, and petrels add to the spectacle.
Temperatures can drop to -40C in winter, but BAS provides essential gear and training. The key to survival is wearing the right kit, avoiding wetness, eating fat and sugar-rich food, and staying active. Being there transforms priorities, making one realize the value of human connection over material possessions. Recycling and shipping waste back home highlight the wastefulness of Western societies.
Returning to the real world can be challenging. The question lingers: Do I fit into this world anymore? Being there is a privilege, and I remind myself to savor every moment. As told to Emma Magnus. Do you have an experience to share? Email experience@theguardian.com.
