In the world of independent watchmaking, Michiel Holthinrichs has carved out a unique niche for himself. Ten years ago, he embarked on a journey to create watches with a twist, and his vision has evolved into the Holthinrichs brand we know today. What started as an idea to challenge conventional watchmaking practices has grown into a full-fledged brand with a distinct identity.
One of the brand's defining features is its embrace of 3D printing technology. Holthinrichs was an early adopter, creating the world's first 3D-printed stainless steel watch, the Ornament 1. This innovative approach to case construction not only set the brand apart but also allowed for unique designs inspired by Holthinrichs' architectural background.
As the brand matured, it developed the concept of Horlogerie Brut, a philosophy that celebrates the raw beauty of manufacturing processes. Textures, finishes, and colors are not masked but rather showcased, adding a layer of depth and character to each timepiece.
To mark its 10th anniversary, Holthinrichs has unveiled two new versions of its Signature Series: the Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds and the Signature LAB 1.GMT. These watches build upon the brand's signature design language while incorporating some intriguing innovations.
The case of these new editions is a testament to Holthinrichs' commitment to craftsmanship. Measuring a compact 38.5mm in diameter and 9.85mm in thickness, the 3D-printed titanium case is a work of art in itself. The sculptural lugs, inspired by architecture and classic car design, create a unique visual flow that is both fluid and impactful.
Being LAB models, these watches showcase the precision of selective laser melting, followed by meticulous milling and hand-finishing. The result is a case that is not only lightweight and comfortable but also features a unique design that challenges traditional watchmaking aesthetics. The raw 3D-printed textures, left partially untouched, add a raw, industrial appeal to the timepieces.
The dials of these watches are equally intriguing. Both feature a copper oxide patina dial, a technique that Holthinrichs has perfected over time. The Small Seconds model pays homage to the brand's roots with a Peseux 7001 movement, and its dial boasts deeply carved lines radiating outward from the subdial. The varying shades of azure-blue and brown-green oxide patina create a captivating visual effect.
The GMT model takes things a step further with a multi-layered relief dial featuring a hand-brushed globe projection. The selective removal of patina creates a darker brown tone, contrasting with the background and adding depth to the dial. The GMT indicators, designed in the style of Breguet, stand out with their brass color and brushed finish, creating a harmonious contrast with the layers beneath.
Mechanically, Holthinrichs has opted for reliable and thin Sellita SW300 base movements, a popular alternative to the ETA 2892. The brand's attention to detail is evident in the patinated, hand-carved, and heat-treated rotor, which features a tungsten weight with beautifully subtle blue and purple tones.
Priced at EUR 5,900 (excl. VAT) for the Small Seconds and EUR 6,500 (excl. VAT) for the GMT, these limited-edition timepieces (100 pieces each) are a celebration of Holthinrichs' journey and a testament to the brand's unique approach to watchmaking.
As an observer of the watch industry, I find Holthinrichs' story particularly fascinating. The brand's ability to blend cutting-edge technology with traditional craftsmanship is a testament to its creativity and vision. The Signature LAB Series is a perfect example of how independent watchmakers can push the boundaries of design and innovation, offering collectors something truly unique and captivating.
